CNN: Jason Overdorf

At the DLF Place mall in the upscale South Delhi neighborhood of Saket, shoppers and employees sit more or less side-by-side in a new “desi” food court, digging into traditional Indian dishes ranging from biryani to dosas to seekh kebabs.

There’s something for everybody — at many tables three generations are sitting down together. But that’s not the reason these traditional upstarts have succeeded in storming what was once the bastion of western brands like McDonald’s and Pizza Hut.

Some of the city’s most famous restaurants are represented here — some of them a century old — transformed by smart uniforms, cheery signage and shining show kitchens to look every bit as clean, efficient and modern as their multinational competitors. Welcome to the future of Indian fast food.